INTRODUCTION:

Skin diseases amount to as high as 34% of all occupational diseases^[1]. In a study it was revealed that skin diseases constituted 6.3% of the total number of the patients who attended medical care^[2]. Recently the practice of herbal medicine has been declining in the very places where it has been once developed and nurtured by oral tradition. This may in future lead to the loss of valuable information about the plants used . The demand for herbal medicines is increasing rapidly due to their lack of side effects. Further as health care costs continue to escalate, the attraction for low-cost remedies has stimulated consumers to re-evaluate the potential of alternatives ^[3].

Cosmetic

“Cosmetic products” have been defined by the European Directive 93/35/EEC ^[4] as “any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good conditions”. Over time, people have developed and used cosmetic products as fragrances and perfumes ^[5].

Differently from the widely spread idea that diffusion of cosmetics is a by-product of acculturated rich Western societies, or have been only used by aristocratic and upper middle classes in the recent centuries in Europe, they also belong to the heritage of indigenous cultures ^[6]and popular classes as well, as, for example, in southern Europe ^[7], although field investigations on these products have been much neglected in recent ethnobiological and ethnopharmaceutical studies.

Cosmeceuticals

If “drugs” have been defined as compounds used in the treatment and prevention of disease, or are intended to affect a physiologic function or structure of the body, and “cosmetics” have been labelled as substances that cleanse, or enhance the appearance of the skin without therapeutic benefits, there is also a “grey” area bordering these two fields, for which the term cosmeceuticals has been defined. Cosmeceuticals represent hybrids between drugs and cosmetic products and are intended to enhance both the health and beauty of the skin by external application^[8]

HERBAL PLANTS FOR SKIN CARE

Holy basil:

In India, Ocimum sanctum or Kovil Tulsi is one of the sacred herbs^[9], which is grown in houses and temples in all areas of the sub-continent. It is a powerful medicinal plant and much has been done to validate its medicinal activity, and Ocimum sanctum extracted in methanol and fed to rats was found to exert an immunostimulatory effect .^[10]When basil oil was tested in trials in India as an antibacterial treatment for acne, it produced good result^[11], this activity could well be due to the antibacterial activity which is present in this family. An excellent study of oils from 4 types of Ocimum species, found that although there was variation, all the oils were found to have antimicrobial activity at fairly low dilutions^[12].

Sandalwood:

Known by the Indian and Sanskrit name of Chandan, Santalum album is used for its volatile oil. It is astringent, cooling, deodorant, disinfectant, stimulant and tonic. Sandalwood is useful in cutaneous inflammation, where the chief uses are in skin care, to soothe cutaneous inflammation, as an antiseptic, a skin softener, and to invigorate peripheral blood circulation in the skin. It acts as a prophylactic against skin diseases and allergic conditions, is haemostatic or styptic, and removes skin blemishes. It has been used since earliest times as incense, in embalming and cosmetics. In ancient India it was used in religious ceremonies. Mentioned in the Nirukka the oldest vedic commentary written (15th century BC). In India and Egypt it is used as a perfume. Effective against Streptococcus aureus. It relieves itching and inflammation of the skin and acts as an antiseptic in acne . Good astringent for oily skin^.[13]

Ceylon Leadwort :

Plumbago zeylanica is extremely popular throughout Africa and Asia as a remedy for parasitic skin diseases, especially leprosy, scabies, acne vulgaris and surface sores and leg ulcers The root has been shown to contain plumbagin, a yellow naphthoquinone, which is responsible for its antimicrobial and antibiotic activity^{[14,15,16,17]} . A very dilute solution (i.e. a concentration of 1:50,000) of plumbagin is lethal to a wide spectrum of bacteria and to pathogenic fungi, i.e. Coccidioides imminites, Histoplasma capsulatum, Trichophyton spp., Candida albicans, Aspergillus niger and A. flavus ^[18]

Pea :

Even the humble pea or Pisum sativum has value in the treatment of acne. The seeds are used, which contain proteins, lecithins, carbohydrates, fats and salts. It is nutritive and antidermatosis. They have an appreciable effect on many types of skin complaint. Face masks made from the crushed fresh fruits are used in cases of acne and on faded, wrinkled skins ^[19].

Camphor :

Camphor or Cinnamomum camphora has an aroma that is fresh, clean and very piercing. It is grown in the East, principally Borneo, China, Sri Lanka, Madagascar and Sumatra. It has white flowers which lead to red berries. This long-lived tree (often up to a thousand years) is not touched until it is about 50 years old. The action on the skin is cooling, therefore reduces inflammatory conditions. Oily skins seem to benefit most and it has been used in cases of acne, burns and ulcers. Cold compresses for bruises and sprains are usually effective^[20].

Pumpkin :

The natives of Central America rub the oil extracted from the seeds of Curcubita pepo on herpes lesions, venereal sores, acne vulgaris, and stubborn leg ulcers which refuse to heal up. Pumpkin leaves are also applied as poultice on sprains and pulled ligaments. The roots are made into an infusion and used on syphilitic sores, herpes lesions, pimples and blackheads^[21]. However, this is a plant that is common on the Indian continent where the plant has similar uses. This species has been the subject of a patent^[22]. Details of a patent are given relating to carbon dioxide extraction of Cucurbita spp. The extracts are suitable for use in cosmetics for treatment of juvenile acne.

Chaste Tree:

As often happens, a plant that is well-known on another continent becomes the subject of another countries attentions. Vitex agnus-castus has been examined for the treatment of acne. In India the plant is more often used to treat bites, eye diseases and most especially menstrual disorders.^[23,24]

Dandelion :

Taraxacum officinale or dandelion is a plant that is common universally and it is used for acne, biliousness, boils, constipation, cystitis, dyspepsia with sluggish digestion, rheumatism^[25]. In another reference, the plant is recommended for skin complaints such as spots, pimples and acne, where a course of dandelion tea and eating fresh young leaves in salads will help clear the skin.^[26]

Black Walnut :

Juglans nigra as Black Walnut. There are six species of the walnut, genus Juglan, which are native to the United States. Black Walnut is among them, widely distributed in the eastern states and extending to adjacent Canada. The bark, leaves, rind and green nut are most commonly used. The bark in particular is quite astringent, while the leaves have a cleansing (detergent) property^[27]. Juglans regia is known as the English Walnut, where the leaves are the medicinal part used in India. The leaf decoction is used externally as a wash or bath additive for rheumatism, gout, glandular swelling, gum problems, scrofula, sweaty feet, acne, dandruff, other skin problems. The constituents are approximately 10% tannin (ellagitannins), which are responsible for the astringent properties. Juglone (or 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone), and hydrojuglone almost entirely in the form of the monoglucoside; juglone is present only in traces in older leaves and in the drug. Related compounds, including a series of volatile 1,4-naphthaquinones like plumbagin, beta- hydroplumbagin, and others are present in other parts of the plant (stem bark, fruit husks). Flavonoids: quercetin, hyperoside, quercetrin etc. Gallic, caffeic and neo-chlorogenic acids ^[28].

Heartsease or Wild Pansy :

Viola tricolor is a healing herb and can be used externally to soothe and relieve pain. The active ingredients are saponins, the glycoside gaultherine, salicylic compounds, tannin, mucilage, flavonoids. It is effective against skin diseases (acne, pruritis eczema etc.). It can be used as an infusion taken internally (2 teaspoons per cup) 2-3 times a day, and applied externally, applied to the skin by means of a compress ^[29]. It is picked when it comes into flower (even the roots can be kept) and dried as quickly as possible for, although taken from the ground, growth continues and diminishes its effectiveness ^[30]. In India it would be more than likely that the Viola yedoensis or Wild Chinese Violet is used. The whole plant is used for its antipyretic, antidote, and antiphlogistic effect, especially where carbuncles, boils, ulcers and other skin conditions are indicated. The juice of the fresh root is applied externally to abscesses ^[31].

Neem, Nimba or Margosa :

The natives of India use Azadirachta indica or neem leaves in various forms such as poultices, ointments, and liniments for everything from leprosy, burns, gangrene, scabies, herpes lesions, eczema, and skin ulcers.The seed oil has also been widely used in Asian medicine, and the therapeutic value of the oil has been confirmed as an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial agent ^[32]. The inner bark of this tree is extensively used in India as a febrifuge and tonic, in the form of powder, or more usually in that of decoction. The roots are said to be vermifuge, and the seeds yield an oil largely used for lighting purposes and sometimes as a medicine.

Coneflower :

The Purple Coneflower or Echinacea angustifolia is one of the most interesting plants of recent times and has been the subject of much serious research. Its traditional use has been for the treatment of acne, boils and mastitis ^[33], an effect that may be due to the antiseptic properties of the plant. The latest thinking on Echinacea is that it is very effective in increasing the ability of the immune system to fight infections, it is a stimulating alterative for use in helping cleanse the body in septic conditions or where resistance to infections is lowered ^[34]. In a recent paper^[35] it is reported that Echinacea has been used successfully in cases of blood poisoning. It was reported that Echinacea was useful against cancerous growths especially of mucous membranes. It has been used to lessen the pain and inflammation of gonorrhoea and syphilis, tonsillitis, impotency and skin disorders, i.e. eczema, psoriasis, acne, poison ivy, irritation. In another paper^[36], it is said that the root and rhizome are used in folk medicine for their antiseptic and vasodilator activities, and are indicated for furunculosis, septicaemia, pyorrhoea, tonsillitis, and particularly for boils, carbuncles and abscesses. They are reported to be depurative, digestive, and confirm the effectiveness against eczema and acne.

Onion :

A plant does not have to be exotic to have value as a skin treatment, even something as apparently mundane as the common red onion or Allium cepa can have beneficial effect. It has been used externally as a poultice for acne, chilblains and arthritis (to draw out inflammation) and the juice applied to blemished skin^[37]. Onion poultices are used on boils, abscesses and blackheads to draw out the infection, decrease inflammation and speed healing. In Africa onion juice has been applied to burns and scalds to prevent blistering and infection^[38], and the natives of East Africa sometimes use the skin of the onion as a sticking plaster on facial and body sores^[39]. A French physician by the name of Ambroise Paré developed an important treatment for major and minor burns incurred through flames, gun powder burns, and explosions, using fresh onion juice^[40].

HERBAL PLANTS FOR HAIR CARE

Rose Apple :

Rose Apple or Eugenia jambos Bianchini it is a species originally from India and is grown today extensively in Florida ^[41].Its name derives from the delicate fragrance of roses that is noticeable when the fruit is eaten. The rose apple is about the size and colour of an apricot, with one to three seeds inside. The name in India is Jambul or Jambu, a closely related species is Eugenia jambolana, also known as Phalendra in Sanskrit. The fruits and leaves are used. Tribal use of Jambu in India is as a ritual post-natal facial wash and in facial wound healing remedies. Jambu is a unique Southern Indian plant which also has the properties of stimulating the scalp and regenerating damaged hair ^[42].

Shellac :

The term shellac is used only for the purified lac, which is a natural resin secreted by the tiny insect Kerria lacca on certain trees and bushes, principally in India and Thailand.The word 'lacquer' also owes its root to the word ‘lac’. Shellac is probably the only commercially used natural resin of animal origin. In addition to being used to produce the old 78 rpm records and to insulate electrical windings, it was also used as a hair lacquer resin ^[43] The Lac host tree in India are the Kusum-trees [Schleichera oleosa (Lour.) Oken], and another species Ber-trees (Lizyphus mauritiana Lamk.) In Thailand the Lac host tree is the Rain tree [Samanea saman (Jac.) Merr.]^[44]. The film forming properties make shellac an ideal compound for hair care products, be it fixatives, pump sprays, aerosol sprays or even mascaras. The film is easily washable with soap or shampoo, so that the hair can easily be freed from the resin. Shellac is compatible with all common plasticisers.

Common Indigo Or Indian Indigo :

In India, Indigofera tinctoria is the source of an important blue dyestuff . It does not exist ready formed, but is produced during fermentation from another agent existing in the plant. This is called Indocan, and is yellow, amorphous, of a nauseus bitter taste with an acid reaction. The plant contains alkaloids, glycosides and oleoresin. Its action is anti-microbial. Wild Indigo is a herb to be considered wherever there is a focus of infection ^[45]. Externally the ointment will help infected ulcers and sore nipples. A douche of the decoction will help leucorrhoea. Mummified remains from Egyptian tombs show that a mixture of Henna and Indigo^[46](Indigofera tinctoria) shoots called Henna reng, was used to colour hair and false beards to a youthful blue-black, a practice that is still found in India today. It is the leaves that yield the dye, and they are soaked in vats filled with water for several weeks, the solution turning deep yellow. This oxidises to form an insoluble precipitate of indigo, used to intensify the black hair of Indian women who soak the dried (or fresh) leaves in water and usually apply it mixed with henna as a paste .

Scarlet Pimpernel :

Anagallis arvensis has a bright scarlet flower. The ancient Greeks were fond of the flower, which they used in the treatment of eye diseases. The herb is also prescribed in cases of jaundice, dropsy and inflammation. The plant has cosmetic properties, applied as a skin lotion, a standard infusion regulates the pigmentation, removing freckles and other minor blemishes. The same lotion is used as a hair restorer. The aerial parts contain various saponins and an enzyme. The root is rich in cyclamine, a crystalline saponin. A tincture prepared from the fresh plant is, however, used to treat skin eruptions and ulcers, also as a cholagogic and diuretic. It is also used to treat stings and bites, to soothe nettle rash, poison ivy rash, and to treat swellings ^[47].

Bhringraj Or Maka :

Eclipta alba Hassk. Is a member of the Asteraceae or Compositae family. The herb, root and leaves are used. Medicinally, bhringraj is indicated for a number of problems including skin diseases. In the cosmetic field it is used as a hair darkener, for skin toning and stimulation, and invigorating peripheral blood circulation of skin. It is traditionally used to check hair loss, stimulate hair growth, and is therefore useful in hair care ^[48,49]. This is a species found across China, Taiwan, Indochina, India, Japan, Philippines. (Syn. Eclipta erecta L., Eclipta prostrata L., Eclipta thermalis Bunge., Eclipta marginata Boiss.) The entire plant is officinal. The plant contains nicotine. It is prescribed as an astringent haemostatic. The extracted juice of the fresh herb is applied to the scalp to promote hair growth and taken internally it blackens the hair and beard ^[50]. It is also found and used in Egypt, where juice of the fresh plant is applied to the scalp to promote hair growth, taken internally it blackens the hair and beard ^[51].

Withania :

Withania somnifera Dunal, Withania coagulans Dunal or Withania has the common Indian names aswagandha (or Asvagandha) and ashwagandha, it is known as Vijaya Kala Gandha in Sanskrit. It is also known by the pretty name of Hair Flower tree. It is often referred to as "Indian ginseng". The dried fruits and roots are anti-inflammatory and used topically for the management of swelling and ulcerations . The flowers of withania are an exclusive hair care remedy in India. Other parts of the shrub are considered for diverse applications, including use as an aphrodisiac, immuno-stimulant and to combat debility due to old age The plant is good for circulation of the scalp, improving the structure of the hair, in preparations against greasy hair and dandruff^[52].

CONCLUSIONS:

The knowledge of medicinal plants used by the people of seems to be well known to its culture and tradition. In the present study we identified many plants used by the people to cure dermatological disorders and as cosmetics. Some of the plants were found to have dual use, both as curative and cosmetic.Further extensive ethnobotanical and ethnopharmacological study may lead to the discovery of plantsand compounds for skin care and cure.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

The authors are very grateful to Director General, CCRAS, New Delhi and for providing encouragement and facilities for carrying out this work. Authors are thankful to Ms. Rekha her assistance for work of the paper.

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Received on 24.12.2009 Accepted on 20.02.2010

Res. J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 1(1): Jan. – June 2010 page 13-17